Switch your main DB off … that is LS simulation.
The over/under voltage, Victorn disconnects at 253v, so say we all … read “just accept it”. (for now).
In non-tech terms, you rather do it at 253 than 255, for then the next person comes past and says why not 258v …or why not 275v, being the upper limit. (whatever it is).
If recharging is such an important thing to do, limiting it, why not set it manually each time there is LS, for when the power goes off.
Would that help?
Make it 5% if you want, manually …
Is the DVCC setting the same as the VEConfig setting? Charge Current in VEC was 30A and Babysitter’s changed it to 15A.
Put differently, I can tweak if I need in Remote Console but can only view in VEConfig.
I’m hoping that Charge Current = 15A will be the sweet spot.
If I smell a crisis coming, I should like to be able to hop into Remote Console > DVCC and say “recharge at 30A and step on it!” That’s what I mean by "provision for me to override/tweak a setting if circumstances require.
Leave the inverter settings at max.
Alter the charge current on the Cerbo/Venus direct via your phone, PC or tablet as you want.
So yes to all that.
Obi Wan! Another piece of the puzzle just dropped for me when you said:
Leave the inverter settings at max
this would be through VE Config, right?
… and use PC/phone to modify as circumstances require
… through Remote Console 
Bonus: Babysitter’s happy since VEConfig is his exclusive territory; I’m happy because I can optimise/tweak and do the necessary if there’s a midnight emergency.
Supply voltage @230V (+10% or -15% tolerance).
Two further things:
You can only affect a charge in your equipment’s capability range. Which, if I am correct, is 4kW to Zero for your inverter.
My Veconfig is playing up on this PC, so I can’t confirm what you see.
However, if I was asked about what power an “AC input current limit” of 50A or 25A was, in any other setting?
I would calculate power using the AC voltage, not the DC voltage. So I think you have changed the setting from “very impossible” to “impossible”. In other words, expecting charger settings changes at those levels are meaningless to that size of inverter.
That isn’t to say there isn’t another further setting restricting the charging current even further because there are various stages of a charging cycle.
There may very well be. The Victron settings are full of settings that supervise other settings without actually explicitly saying so.
This is where @Plonkster is invaluable at knowing the code behind things.
Then you can add this on top, the battery chemistry can limit charging current with Lead acids, and a BMS can also impose itself on the system with Lithium.
Secondly, I may have missed it, but I haven’t seen any regard being given to what the battery is capable of. Different batteries like different rates 1C ;0.5C etc.
So, in conclusion, checking what your batteries are capable of and ensuring you don’t exceed that is the first step.
Then a host of things in between that sensibly consider and account for the nature and stage of your battery’s chemistry charging cycle.
And lastly, when you have done all that, try to keep your local governance body happy if you are still inclined.
Ditto … you control what you want in Remote Console yes.
VE.Direct is for next level, Grade 12, if you want, control.
Masters comes in when you control the system, inverter too, with NodeRED/HomeAssistant.
Doctatorial is when you use EskomSePush App, on the Cerbo in NodeRED, to tell the inverter when to start charging with Eskom at what amps.
Just a quick summary,
So many 
s!
MPII 5kVA so you’re correct, 4kW.
The default ‘AC input current limit’ was 50A (a whopping AC 12000W). Does this parameter have anything to do with the inverter’s passthrough capability? The datasheet says “50A passthrough” but I’m just matching up numbers.
(I had felt sore enough about giving up a notional 13A = 63A - 50A and I was going to actually ask the installer to revert from 25A to 50A in case microwave+hob+kettle+food processor when the grid is up, which could get to AC 6000W quite easily.)
The Victron settings are full of settings that supervise other settings without actually explicitly saying so.
I got a distinct whiff that that was the case. This is why the installer is supposed to be doing the initial tweaks and customisations and I’m just going “This is what I’d like, and why; can it be done?”
host of things in between that sensibly consider and account for the nature and stage of your battery’s chemistry charging cycle.
Again, I’m depending on the installer’s knowledge and expertise. I’d picked one of the relatively large companies off Victron’s map + an elec eng friend’s recommendation for this very reason. The battery is a Freedom Won e-Tower 5.2kW (1C) (recommended by the installer) - I’d said upfront that I would be guided by him. My impression is that he’s a cautious guy, certainly not one of the hairy-chested Sunsynk crowd, and he picked 15A for Charge Current (I’d merely hinted that there might be another setting to look at because the first one hadn’t worked - and I thought I might nonetheless be wrong, WhatsThis notwithstanding. The description looked like Plain English but I took into account that it might be Manualese)
And lastly, when you have done all that, try to keep your local governance body happy if you are still inclined.
I certainly don’t want to mess up either the inverter or battery. But being considerate to my SP (Eskom Direct) and broader society will always weigh heavily on me. I actually feel guilty that I have lights and am able to carry on working while my neighbours are sitting in darkness. The one set is pretty elderly and I was going to offer an extension cord for lights and TV.
The grid has returned and Hallelujah! if Eskom crashes, it is not likely to be attributed to me. Recharging at a respectable average 800W, drawing around 1200W because both fridges decided they need to run right now 
But I fully take the point about the battery’s health and I will chat to the Babysitter soonest. He’s going to hate me. I must pacify and coddle him a bit with Uber’d cake.
Edit: Started recharging at 20h19, 500W needed, done by 20h43, call it 25 minutes. No anxious feelings from me and I don’t think that Eskom can grumble.
Doctatorial is when you use EskomSePush App, on the Cerbo in NodeRED, to tell the inverter when to start charging with Eskom at what amps.
I definitely got too big for my boots too soon 
One of the first things I thought while I was still shopping was that it must be possible to feed the app into the inverter and for it to dynamically adjust a whole lot of things based on the app’s data.
And that’s simply because I’d been manually turning the geyser on and off since last October with reference to whether the graph was in the green. Many midnights sitting around with hair in a towel (I hate hairdriers, have never used one, and have consequently never had a split end in my life, tell your household 
A piece of silk to polish is all you need) and grumbling that I was single-handedly holding up the grid by waiting for the green to turn on the geyser (and not if it were within 30 minutes of the grid returning).
There’s one discrepancy I’ve noticed: the app’s figures for Available Supply and Demand differ from Eskom’s figures that it tweets. The app is more conservative (about 2000W less for each) so I thought it wouldn’t necessarily be dangerous to rely on it. And then to find a way for some sort of redundancy in case their server crashes or an update goes squiff.
If we put things in a logical sequence, starting with your battery.
There will be a max through current that that battery is designed to handle. (being under this threshold will increase longevity).
The battery can be charged from the charge controllers and/or from the grid through the inverter.
So there will be a setting that imposes a DC current limit (1C in your case). ( I’ll call it Setting 1)
Then there will be another inverter AC current from the grid current limit. ( I’ll call this Setting 2).
This will comprise your loads and consider what your inverter is doing.
If your inverter is going to charge the battery, your inverter will also be a load. If your inverter is in inverter mode, it will lessen your loads.
Setting 1 and Setting 2 can conflict by limiting the amount of charging that the grid can deliver to the battery.
However, Setting 1 also limits how much charge battery can take overall including the PV source (I think). So I don’t think imposing this limit is a good idea.
Setting 2 could limit your entire throughput load and possibly force your batteries to work instead of the grid, exacerbating the issue after load shedding. So I equally don’t think this is the right intervention either.
Now, let’s consider what you are trying to do. You don’t want to impose much load on your grid as it returns, and you want to do this by limiting the draw from the grid to your batteries.
It is also a nighttime problem and not a daytime one when you have PV charging.
How about reframing the problem? Rather than limiting your system’s capabilities 24hrs a day, maybe, allow charging from the grid at specific times?
Load-shedding switches on the hour and the half-hour.
So schedule night-time charging at twenty to and ten past the hour during the night.
And leave daytime as it is.
Now, you’ll be able to sleep easier with a guilt-free conscience, so make yourself a nice hot cup of Horlicks when the power comes back.
I want to digest the first two paragraphs properly
But this has been the issue:
Mea culpa, I made an assumption.
However, it just means you impose charging schedules during the day as well.
But, seriously, with your frugal usage, I really think you are already doing your bit.
Technically. possible or not:
Storing ESKOM power in a battery when cheap and selling back to ESKOM when expensive will never be a moneymaker. Those are their selling conditions to you, not your purchase terms to them.
Additionally, I doubt there will be a UPS case where you use battery power in peak times and make a saving.
Be aware at every energy conversion. There are losses, AC to DC; DC to chemical energy, Chemical energy back to DC, and DC back to AC. ( I describe a roundtrip through a battery).
That probably translates into having to cover 30%+ in efficiency losses.
This doesn’t take into account wear and tear on capital equipment to enable this to happen.
A UPS is a convenience, not a money saver.
Dorothy wants to control charging slots, have a bit more control if you want.
Storing ESKOM power in a battery when cheap
It will really just be for recharging the battery overnight (at 70c/kW 
that’s like last century’s prices). And I run stuff like the washer and geyser on a TOU routine out of habit anyway.
Our bill is ZAR600 at the new increased tariff so this was never going to be about saving / ROI. Well, I say that, but I’ve taken to working from home and the UPS is predominantly for that, computers on 16 hours a day, 08h00 to midnight and often beyond. That it’s effectively “powering the office” changes the calculus profoundly: the Smurf’s more than worth his weight in copper. I just got greedy and wanted to power the induction hob as well because I hate cooking on gas . But as it turns out, the hob wants 300W, maybe 600W, at a time so that’s worked out very well indeed.
having to cover 30%+ in efficiency losses.
I’ve been keeping an eye out for said losses. This is why the top-up-top-up every hour irritated me. I was “Why are you doing this? Are you leaking? Is there a fault?” But I’ve been keeping a close eye on the Direct Use and To Battery and it’s still coming in around 4.5kW a day. I’ll keep monitoring.
I think we live normally but I actually have no idea why the consumption’s so low relative to at least my circle. They report bills between 2000 and 5000 and I’m, um, we’re 500; what are you guys running. Eskom Direct is less expensive than the municipal supply but not enough to account for the difference. I fear that I’m missing out on some essential appliance 
[Edit. I was so wrong about that! Eskom Direct’s line charge was 140/m to CoJ’s 900. Robbery. My mates who are on piped gas for geysers and stoves are particularly livid because they pay 1300 for the balance, average 150kWh.]
(I’m finicky about the appliances being energy efficient but the big thing was the geyser: consumption used to be 300kWh monthly with it running 24/7. The Aerolite and timetabling brought it right down. Aerolite is massively under-rated. What an excellent product. Add thermal curtains and make like an ancient Roman opening and closing windows and shutters over the course of the day, and there was no need for air-conditioning (which I had nixed anyway on the basis that it’s murder on the skin). The Australians say to add pelmets but that’s a bridge too far for me; too 70s. Amazing Ways A Simple Invisible Pelmet Can Keep Your Home Warm I want to add a couple of Venturi screens as much for the science as for the aesthetics India's sustainable cooling solution ). I’ve always been interested in passive house design and I can’t believe that solar is finally easily available and I’m, nah.
Seen this?
The Pareto principle is a realistic rule of thumb. It means that you can get 80% of the way there by spending 20% of the cost of getting 100% there.
It strikes me that given your already frugal usage and the costly equipment you are deploying to reduce that usage further, you are in contravention of this altruism.
In other words, spending a lot (or inconveniencing yourself/your partner further) is a false economy to save pennies.
The job has already been done. You’re in sackcloth and ashes territory.
Ai ja jai. Sometimes it helps to speak to a person … start by reading what they say. 
Facts:
Lady has a UPS, she chose Victron being a LF inverter based on what she researched.
She added a FreedomOne 100ah battery.
And a Cerbo.
Was supplied and installed by a reputable company.
Panels, cannot REALLY be justified at the moment, usage too low, not always at home, and there are is a regular “reappropriation without compensation” issue in the area.
The core reason for this purchase was that she can now work from home … “accidentally” she found that she can use her MPII 5kva to cook with, as her preferred devices run with ease on it, a joyous discovery for her, during LS.
So what’s all this deep analysis of losses and Pareto Principal about? 
It is a UPS that with clever usage of existing software, can become a clever UPS.
Let’s focus on that, shall we?
ESS is enabled …Teamviewer is a cool tool.
She learned that no MK3 cable is needed. 
And the file to reset everything back to non-ESS, is stored on her PC.
Showed her DVCC, to sort the charge amps she asked about.
Showed her Keep Charged if in doubt … same as the UPS before.
My suggestion: Run on Optimized without Batterlife, SOC set to 100%.
Then set two charge Schedules:
The other things I wonder about:
Keeping a Lithium batt mostly charged?
Why not use it especially IF the sums show that one can buy at a lower rate from Eskom at night?
So use the batt at a more expensive Eskom rate, and recharge it on a Schedule?
EDIT:
Now that we are back on track, let’s see how far we can push a UPS to get clever?
To remind people of the reality of what’s at stake. The same energy/cost saving can be achieved by having one less daily cuppa.
True … but in THIS particular case, the ability to work through the LS woes consistently brings in thousands and thousands of cuppas every month … the rest are just “learning” what the system can do whilst making a cuppa on said induction plate … during LS.
