What Batteries to buy when starting out with solar and why

Thanks! It seems I’ve been mostly working the battery in a responsible manner, though the charge rate sometimes exceeds this.

Will have to remember to set a charge limit when I’ve drained them to below 85% SOC which is usually when this happens.

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But a kettle boils in about 3 minutes (a little more if you fill it up to the top), so even there it’s probably not going to matter. A single US3000 is rated for 37A continuous, and a 2kW kettle would need only around 40A (at 50V) to do the job.

I started of with 1 x 3000C Pylontech and had not issues, just check the load.
Currently running 2 x 3000C Pylontech and not issues with kettle, microwave. toaster. Not all of them at the same time though. :smile:
Kettle is no issue for solar system. 2kw for 1 or 2 minutes isn’t much.

A question, won’t a single US3000 for example on a 3 kVA Multi let alone a 5 kVA influence the battery warranty?

Pylontech can extract data from the battery to see if it has been abused. Of course, if someone wants to be difficult, they could deny the claim, but I don’t think that is how they do it. They look at the data on the battery itself.

Well, they do the suggested number of modules here:


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Yup I specifically asked the question because of that list, heard / read somewhere can’t remember that Pylon will actually be difficult in terms of warranty if not following the Victron guideline.

Also because of that, in my opinion when buying / budgeting if comparing Pylon to others, Freedom Won for example, you can’t really compare a Pylon UP5000 to a FW Lite 5/4 even though they have very similar capacity, since you’ll need at least 2 Pylons right off the bat.

If this is true and budget is very limited as in you can only afford around 5 kWh in batteries as a start, this will unfortunately take Pylon out of the picture.

I think it more relates to your specific loads rather than the inverter you connect to. I can have a single pylontech on a 5kw inverter but essential loads of only 1000w and it would be perfectly fine. AFAIK pylontech will pull the data from the battery to check if it was abused or not.

That’s why I mentioned in my earlier post that the system should be designed correctly.

People that are fixated on c rating and trying to get the max profits will tell you what they believe is correct. However, every user is different and has different needs.

A large part of that guide is that if the battery is too small, it cannot handle the inrush current of the inverter at switch-on. A smaller part is that if it is too small, it is more likely to suffer from overvoltage and or DC ripple issues. And finally, just one module is less stable overall, since a single BMS disconnecting leaves you in the dark. Always better to have two small modules instead of one large one.


Was pretty once again the Hubble crowd that brought about this C fixation where it wasn’t really that important in the big scheme of things. But it’s the only thing that the NMC battery does well.

Ah you had to mention it, I bet you @TheTerribleTriplet will be here soon :laughing:

Bah!!! Begone you!!! Don’t you come and jinx me in 2022. :man_facepalming: :laughing:

Me, myself and I, we’ve got them DC Ripple thingy sorted to a T, no, a TTT!!!

Have not had a sniff off one, not on 18 cells, not on 17, not on 16 and lately, not even on 15 cells.

Just keep the cells top-balanced … steer far far away from 3.65v until the bank is balanced … or else.

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