aaah ok. So it didn’t form a channel between the combustion chambers of cylinder 2 and 3. It means one or both of those started ejecting exhaust gasses into the cooling system. That puts the cooling system under pressure and pushes the water out wherever it can, usually out of the radiator cap (which has a pressure release spring) or the reservoir.
In this case, you probably did very little additional damage to the engine by carefully driving it like that.
I once saw a Honda Civic at a service station (Lord Charles), the water (cold to the touch) literally sprayed out of the radiator like a fountain when you cranked the engine. The water being cold… we knew it wasn’t boiling. High school kid, who promptly confessed that the car overheated, but they drove it there hoping that refilling with water would fix it. The poor kid looked so despondent when I told him he had to call his dad, he blew the gasket and he might even have damaged the “top”.
In chatting to others who go to the same repairer (referred and all that), who also worked last on the head (I did not replace the water pump after 20 years or whatnot - my bad call the 1st time) … I’m having some serious doubts.
The same place that did the head then also replaced the exhaust gasket then as preventative, had to replace the exhaust gasket a 2nd time (dawned on me too late) a few months ago.
That was after I got a 2nd opinion, them “fixing” the turbo as the “cause”, yet the blowing still remained, the 2nd opinion took 10 seconds to say it was the exhaust gasket blowing a bit … silly me taking it back to them to fix it a 2nd time.
So in contemplating it all, the water loss is one thing, because of a water drip, never seen, a very difficult placed pipe, a small one, not tightened properly.
The head gasket should not have been damaged that fast. Iw as careful!
Cause I sat and thought this weekend, I heard the engine sound, inside, getting louder and louder (wife confirmed I’m not imagining it), with the temp perfect all the time, bar the little bit of water loss. She is “quiet” again inside the vehicle, compared.
Perfect storm I think … 1) pipe finally got too loose the water issue and 2) I “feel” the head gasket was already taking “shots” unbeknownst to everyone.
So even if I was more adamant to find the damn leak and threw my toys properly and with gusto, I will next time(!), I don’t think anymore that I could have had 100’s of thousands of km’s on the same gasket/head.
One small “silver randjie” … the 24-year-old thermostat was replaced sommer too with perfect timing @ a minuscule R 402 … the ONLY good thing that came out of this … because the mechanic just did it, no “permission asked, it is getting replaced and that’s that” attitude … which I paid with a smile too.
So yeah, a “perfect storm” my gut tells me. Two totally separate matters, at the same time.
EDIT: Maybe the pipe was pushed loose BECAUSE the head gasket finally got “pushed” too far, too much pressure getting into the water system.
Don’t know, just a gut feeling, but she is NEVER going back to that repairer EVER. Referred or not.
Sounds to me like you had a water leak, it ran too hot, it damaged the head gasket.
More common where the head is of a different material as the block. Eg Aluminium head, cast iron block. They expand at different rates, so a loss of cooling is always a bad thing.
Water temp sensor is often lower on the block, so it will not sense a gradual loss of coolant.
Now take the AD engine in my RAV4, that has an aluminium block, with steel sleeves (non-replaceable) for the cylinders. Complete loss of cooling in that thing will mean a new engine. Even replacing a head gasket isn’t really adviseable, the best option is a new shortblock (ie, a complete engine sans accessories, you move those over from the old engine).
You may find this video/playlist interesting. This is about a BMW i8 (small 3 cylinder engine plus electric motor) where everything kept showing the engine was fine. Compression test was good, cylinders looked good, but the car kept overheating. Finally figured it out by doing a block test: Using a liquid that changes colour when it detects the exhaust gasses in the cooling system: Blown head gasket.
He got lucky. Same engine as in the mini cooper, just tuned differently. BMW made this thing so you can do ONE head gasket fix, by providing a 0.3mm thicker head gasket to be used for repairs. Sometimes BMW does kinda cool stuff…
Maybe … but she was cool as a cucumber the last year until she was not. Like in an instant.
Also did not lose enough water during this year to say “Wait, what the dinges(!)”. Half a liter here, a liter there after a month or two every now and then.
Maybe she ran hot in that time … yeah, there is that, most definitely, due to wherever the temp sensor sits.
We did take a couple of trips in this time.
No “science” behind this, just know that she can take a LOT of punishment … and last a very long time if the right people work on her when that is needed, and that preventative replacement of parts that wear out is done in time.
Hence my reluctance for any and all vehicles that when the similar happens, it is “over, write it off” as similar repairs make it totally uneconomical for that vehicle make/engine type.
So what I drive at 90-100km’h getting 11km/pl … wife and I now take all the roads least traveled… as driving open roads is sooooo boring.
Like:
Came back from Clamvilliam and was NOT looking forward to that boring road back … saw this turnoff to Ceres, and thought why not, let’s see where this road goes … o my, over a beautiful pass, mostly dirt road and we saw a camping spot or two along the road too to investigate in the future! She was a cool cucumber. We did about ±200km total of dirt roads that weekend … looking for blerrie flowers. Next time I’m sitting in the back with a beer or 6, I swear.
Ps. Checking your maps is cheating … take the turnoff and go.
If you hit the Karoo proper, you went too far
If you hit an ocean, turn around.
… and we never get lost … we just take longer to get there.
Just a little bit of info … Suzy is now insured for R119k … jup, got it valued and the insurer accepted the SI. Must be valued annually. These old ladies, man, they do keep their value.
Why is it important?
In case of theft/write-off, I can recover all expenses incurred seeing I’m going through a “let’s give this 24-year-old lady some decent TLC”.
Interestingly, the injectors:
When one asks about them, you are asked: Did you run ±2 cans of Wurt Injector Cleaner through 2 x 80l tank refills?
Yes, ok, we’ll check them. Either new ones if you want OR just new tips OR we just clean them.
No, ok then, go away and come back once you have dunnit, and the problem persists.
I liked that … and after doing it, man, she now wants to “spin in 4th” when pulling away.
… ok ok … the point is, a huge difference.
… and some say cars just last 10 years … not this “lady”!
EDIT: I found mechanics that are older than Suzy … and they have 2nd hand parts too.
Not cheap though …
Survivorship bias. I’m not devaluing the achievement, I’m just saying that when some say cars only last 10 years, they may be talking averages. The average car is just 12 years old. Only 1 in 10 cars reach their 20th birthday. Those who make it beyond that typically needs heaps of mechanical maintenance, which often makes me think of Theseus’s ship (is it really still the same car if the engine was replaced or fully overhauled, for example? ).
As an example, look at LRP fuel. South Africa phased out leaded petrol in 2006, although it must be said that many manufacturers did it much earlier than that. Toyota stopped in 1986, except for one model Cressida, and the Dyna, and most VWs were also fine except the 16V engine they used in the Jetta. I digress. Here we are, 18 years later, and about 5% of the cars on the road still use LRP. 95% of the cars are gone, in about 20 years. It tracks.
In some vehicles when you have to spend more than the insured value on like a gearbox part that went, PC board … it makes total sense to get rid of it and FAST.
We had a Crappy like that once. A small 800cc cute little thing. Cheap as chips on fuel, nippy, but o my word, when anything breaks, and that is IF you can find the part, even from a scrapyard in Jhb, it costs a small fortune … so I learned very fast the hard way to “let it goooooo”.
When the chassis is still solid, the body still near pristine, then things like disks, pads, bushes, and bearings are all par for the course of the cost of owning a vehicle. And if you only replace them once every decade or so, then it makes even more sense.
BUT!!! Touch the chassis, or deep rust … forget it … it must go.
It is a fine line to maintain with spades of common sense applied.
The line I recently drew in the sand … if I spend more on the car over say 2 years than what it is insured for, at the risk of losing it all in an instant when it is written off/stolen, then better I think very carefully about how big my appetite is for taking that risk.
Will NEVER do this with a 2nd hand car we bought as a “new” vehicle … Crappy was a VERY expensive lesson.
Then there is this … my friend told me the other week, his car went into limp mode. He could not change gears anymore. Big “clank” when he takes it out of park into 1st or reverse.
Switching the car off/on, helps for a teeny while, then the computer refuses again.
Quote to fix it, i.e. new gearbox: R67k.
He took it to a friend of a connection’s brother’s cousin. Guy opened the gearbox and “rinsed it out”. Something to do with iron filings getting onto the electrical actuators in the gearbox, they are magnetic or some such.
You know what drains batteries apparently: trackers. Sometimes you might even find multiple ones in a car. I find it weird that they install them in a way that they are always on, would have imagined it is sufficient to couple it to whether the car is on or not. Perhaps not that easy.
Solenoids. Modern autoboxes have solenoids that control the flow of oil, and this oil flow engages the bands for the gear you want. Solenoid gets clogged, no more “that” gear.
Here is an example of a hybrid Audi that could not even start the engine because of that (skip to 11:30 if you are in a hurry). Slightly different, this is a DSG. Audi says don’t clean it… replace it. The internals are scratched and it can leak oil pressure and not work properly. But at least you don’t have to replace the whole gearbox.
This video actually shows how they discover things over time. There are often bulletins from the manufacturer telling you how to fix it, and this almost always tells you to replace the whole module, but over time mechanics learn the real issue and can replace just the bad part.
You should check his earlier video where he diagnoses a BMW hybrid. That car has TWO ways of starting the petrol engine. They have a starter motor that starts the engine from the 12V battery, using a belt drive (believe it or not), but in case that doesn’t work it can also start the engine using the HV battery+motor.
The reason for the separate starter: So a flat HV battery doesn’t leave you stranded.
So, update:
After 25 years rear calipers can maar be replaced, as the Brake Booster and brake Master Cylinder. Turns out, if you replace the rear calipers, do the front ones sommer ook. Sorts a ton of issues.
Disks/pads/drums are all still fine … don’t have much use for them, have a “retarder” built in … just take your foot off the accelerator and “there you go”, “retarder” kicks in, gear down like a “truck”, who needs brakes.
Propshaft, it was time. Remove it, sorted all the parts, balance it , put it back.
The people working on her, seldom do they see a 25yo vehicle in such a good condition, the engine is clean. Me like" Huh, it must be. If it is not then there is a leak that must be fixed, not so?
What’s left:
Minor touchups here and there.
Some quirky rust in the engine compartment to be sorted.
Driver seat cushion needs a bit of a “lift”.
Driver door hinges can be looked at after all this time.
Rubbers here and there IF one can find them … will email Japan one day.
Clutch also one of these years.
The aircon, after all this time, needs some big repairs - will get to that.
Diff seal sweats a teeny bit.
The vehicle is now insured for R119 000, so one can safely do these repairs.
Certain old vehicles that can still do ±11.5km/l in traffic (and open road) if you “drive them right” are so worth it to keep them going.
So, after 25 years you do some maintenance … and replace the rear wheel cylinders - one leaked.
… and then the shiite starts.
Brakes are soft/hard, “voel sommer” mushy … so, it is “time” for a “full systems check” right?
Remove & replace brake master with new. Nope.
Font brake calipers, they still work perfectly after 25 years … but there is a time to strip and clean them ja? Better ja, but still nope.
Fit new brake line pipes. Nope.
Fill brake system with fresh brake fluid & bleed brakes, do it sommer 6+ times.
Remove and put back the load sensing valve twice - remove it sommer, it is NOT a bakkie. Nope.
Booster checked and is also still 100%.
Turns out:
This model Isuzu KB has a quirk with bleeding the brakes. Now they know how. Titbit: Same with the clutch hydraulic system. Better you know about it. Can again after years downshift on speed with no more double clutching kinda moves.
That brand-new quality rear cylinders does not mean they cannot be faulty being new!!!
That was the problem, faulty NEW cylinders.
Weeks of troubleshooting and more parts replaced. Ok, none of the other parts replaced was “not needed”. Goes under the Maintenance column.
Two people to mention:
If you are in Cape Town and surrounds, S/West, etc, your brakes done at your house/office, get this man:
Two gems I tell you. I recommend them anytime.
Their patience, their persistence, and commitment.
Respect!
Today:
Proshaft reconditioned - it was time.
308 000 km service done sommer ook.
Brakes are properly serviced again - maintenance see.
Driver and rear seats cushions beefed up a bit.
And my 85yo mother can change gears again … still need a strong left leg though …
Next the entire aircon system … yeah, it is time after Twenty. Five. Years!
Can get generic parts, or look for Isuzu parts. Generic is easier.
The original AC compressor can be fully reconditioned… after Twenty. Five. Years!
So I have some “critics” out there, in the form of family.
Was told that it could cost me R277 000 in diesel if I drove another 100 000 km with Suzy.
(9km/l at R25 per liter)
I get 11.5km/l measured if I drive right so it is R217 000 if we want to nitpick.
Compared to a new car today, can do that for wot, R125 000, using the “computer” calculations. Ok.
So I looked the critics straight in the eye and asked … SO, to do that I need to spend ±R450 000 on that new car (one used in the comparison) + interest over 5 years to save MAYBE R92 000 in diesel? Am I missing something?
Well, no, you are not spending the full cost of the car. Your actual money out of pocket is only the devaluation, the opportunity cost, and the additional insurance on the more expensive vehicle.
Essentially, you have to subtract the resale value of the vehicle, after 100 000km, because that’s the “starting point” so to speak.
So if you could save about 100k in Diesel by driving a new car, and over that 100 000km the new car does not cost you 100k in devaluation, opportunity cost and insurance, it would be a win.
If we assume 10% devaluation on a 450k car, that is 45k already… per year. You don’t drive 100k km in a year I assume, so it seems pretty clear to me that just devaluation would wipe out any savings to be had.
Ditto, when you REALLY calc it, what a new car costs in total, it gets very interesting.
Suzy was bought 25 years ago for R185 000.
Can sell her today for R120 000 to the right buyer.
So yeah, the sums make sense to keep her going ito “devaluation”.
Insurance, before I upped it, was stuck on ±R150 pm for years.
And if one REALLY want to save on diesel, and be nice to the environment, then use 100% biodiesel for Pete’s sake. IF you can find …
I did drive for months at like R4.50 per liter for ‘diesel’. That was till the used oil okes realised they are sitting on a “gold mine” in “get it off my property” used chips oil. So the price at the time jumped to like R10 per liter, diesel was selling for like R14 if memory serves. Even had a 220l drum and pump in the garage at the time. Was fun.
