Shelly or Sonoff

Your AP power settings may be too high: the AP is shouting, so the client can hear it, but when replying the client speaks at a normal volume, which is too low for the AP to pick up again. If you lower the AP power, the weaker client won’t think “full bars!”.

You might also want to turn off the automatic wifi optimiser that runs nightly.

Also with loadshedding, any AP that is set to automatic channel selection may pick a channel that is empty when it boots, but becomes very busy as the neighbours’ routers come online. The automatic optimiser is supposed to fix this, but YMMV.

I’m running my APs at a lower power and picked channels manually (that don’t overlap) for APs that are close together, and set the channel bandwidth to the lowest setting for the IoT SSID – no problems at all.

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Get yourself a PTC element for added peace of mind, can’t run away like that.

Wll save you some money too! :stuck_out_tongue:

That looks easy enough.

Problem I still have is that I’m not confident using the TH16 itself for the geyser (seen too many burn out), so I have to power it separate from the geyser which is on an astute.

I guess I could replace the isolator with an astute version and then power the sonoff from before the isolator. Hmmm

Other option is to shell out for a Geyserwise and replace the board with the new IoT version.

±R890 for a bottom-of-the-range TSE GW.
Then another ±R670 for the display swap.

Me, I would consider holding off for a moment, the new Wifi version is supposed to come out in Oct, if you don’t have one installed that can take the new display.

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What are the chances that the new wifi version will be less expensive than that combo, call it R1500?

What about this that @mmaritz mentioned? Keeps you in the ecosystem.

You can surely still use the temperature sensor on the TH16 separately?

THAT is the question. I would guess maybe R1500, but then at least, you have a 1-year warranty on a new unit.

Why not shell out for a Geyserwise Dual and forget about the Shelly/Sonoff??

You may have read some of my posts on having been on EV tubes for 9.5 years. Best time ever. And the costs to replace that system entirely to keep on saving.

Using our existing system as is, so much cheaper … and simpler.

Spending on a Dual, why? To complicate things even more by switching panels based on what needs power when, between inverter and Dual … not a chance when I can install a stock standard off-the-shelf product to heat a geyser based on times.

And if the solar production is insufficient, Dual or not, Eskom is going to be used.

The Shelly idea is there to control the geyser more optimally, based on panel/household loads, without thinking about it. With the GW as a bypass in case the automation has issues.

I always think of what can go wrong first.

Also to note, I’m a wee bit averse to too much automation. Shiite goes wrong when you are far far away, with no one around to quickly come in and fix it, and much worse if the system gets really complicated over time.

KISS.

EDIT: Recently got our geyser up to 75deg on GW … bliss.
Heated 100% using solar power, whilst the house is also running on solar.

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I had no idea about the imminent new model. I can get a used TSE1 for R600 and the R750 for the IoT display. I guess I’ll hold out for the new version to see pricing.

Why the dual over the TSE1?

That’s kind of what I was thinking, but with an astute isolator instead of the powr3

Just make sure it’s compatible. It’s the newer models that work fine.

I’m in the market for a new Geyserwise.
Geyserwise told me earlier today that there is no ETA for the wifi model yet though it is already in production.
They said that it’s not necessary to wait for it though and I might as well buy now, since the retrofit board they sell at this stage is exactly the same thing which will come out in the new batch which will have the wifi as standard.

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The Geyserwise TSE is a geyser timer.
The Dual is a timer plus a dual element and MPPT plus dedicated solar panels.
Since the geyser is the biggest consumer of power this system has 3-4 panels that only heat the geyser. The PV heating is only switched off when the geyser temperature exceeds the max SP.

I might be convinced if you could use all excess PV power that your system has to be diverted to the geyser but thus far I haven’t seen an elegant solution…

Ok, does this help?
5.2kw array.
Call it 4.5kw available at peak times of the day.
2kw geyser element - up to 75deg.
House draw say 1kw
Batteries get 1.5kw

How is the control done??

I think this might be the biggest contention why people don’t agree with you. In my house the washing machine, dishwasher & aircons give the geysers a run for their money. Sure it’ll help to get them offloaded, but you have to agree that there is potential waste there. Especially if you’ve got limited roof space.

So I think you should qualify your selection with “If your geyser is the biggest consumer, and you have enough roof space for dedicated panels, I think the Geyserwise Dual is a good solution”. But you’re stating it as fact without stating your departure point, nor are you mentioning any drawbacks…

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  1. Time of the day, based on when I know there is spare solar, like from 10 am - 3 pm.
  2. Next level … Shelly.

And when there is not enough solar, press the Red Button.

My rules are:
Batt first.
Geyser 2nd.
… don’t care for the rest, as long as the PC’s work.

Our house, washing machine works on Critical loads. I REALLY don’t bother with it, even on batts.
Dishwasher … bah, the geyser is 75, wet y’re hands. :slight_smile: