Hi All
I am trying to figure out my alarm system and took a look at the panel but cant see a model number anywhere. from pictures it appears to be a 5050 panel, but cant confirm.
I have downloaded babyware, or at least registered to download, but I dont see a spot anywhere for me to connect to the unit eg ethernet port. So how do I access this motherboard?
I can add a IP Module, but for now I want to first access the motherboard itself and pair it to the software.
Where do I go for this info?
Try Google Lens…
Seems I have a IDS X64 panel
I have manuals for that somewhere…
Edit: Yes, I do. Can send it to you if you want. DM an email address. Big old RAR file…
So I have a question. I have a expander module for zones 17-24, but no expander plugged into the main board, and yet there are zones active for 8-16.
What exactly am I missing here?
Often there are a fixed number of inputs that are on the CPU board. Could these be the ones that are working??
There are 8 zones on the panel itself, zones 1-8, but I have beams on zones 9-16, and then 17-24 on the wired expander. There should be a plug in expander which is for zones 9-16. But I don’t see it.
Nevermind figured it out, seems whomever originally renamed zones put the names in zones 8-16 and then realised they needed a different expander, so they just left it and moved on the next set of zones, changing names slightly. I also realised I have a bunch of external beams not doing anything as a result
Years ago, I use to install alarm systems for my customers, Only used Pyronix Matrix panels. Could plug my laptop into the system and configure it within minutes, Zones, Areas, what ever I wanted. It was the most advanced system I have worked with up till then. One day my supplier told me that they have stopped selling it, I asked why, they told me I was the only installer that liked the system, the others did not even have laptops. They are still sold today, just not in SA.
I noticed two of the internal sensors are wired in series but only one displays on the screen when activated. Is this normal?
I am working off the panel currently only. Why do they suggest a resistor be put between the motherboard and the sensors?
I am basically just looking at YouTube videos and reading manuals as I go along.
My take ons this. They are looking for a closed circuit with a specific value. Should someone climb through the roof tiles and strip the cable in the ceiling and then try to bridge the two “Signal” wires , the panel will sense an unknown value and report on that.
With the two resistors 4k7 and 12k being in parallel, the sum of the two resistors in parallel (Rt = (R1xR2)/(R1+R2)) will indicate a healthy condition, should someone open the PIR case, the 4k7 will not be in play anymore and only the 12k will be seen, this will then be reported as a tamper mode. Should the PIR be triggered by motion, the 4k7 will be seen and the condition will be reported as an alarm.
The combined resistance is 3k3, that explains why you will use a 3k3 resistor should you chose not to with the tamper contact into the circuit.
That is why they call it “End of line resistor supervised” . It covers all possible angles, Broken wire, shorted wire, tamper and motion.
I am not reading your post properly, deleted 3 posts. If two zones are connected in series, only one will show because they are wired to only one input. Does not matter which one you trigger, the same Zone will show
Then I have an issue somewhere as when I activate the 2nd sensor that is wired to the first one, nothing comes up on the panel. Will have to look for a correct wiring example for this.
Can you take a picture of the wiring in the two sensors. Would be interesting to see how they connected it. Only two things makes sense here. Either the alarm contact on one is not connected or they were connected in parallel but the N/O contact on the one thats not working we’re connected instead of the N/C
Never heared of a contact on a PIR being stuck in a closed position but I guess it’s possible.
Will make a video for you tomorrow and send it over WhatsApp
This is usually so tampering can be detected. You usually put the resistor at the sensor, in series. If someone tries to bypass the zone by getting access to the wiring and shorting the wires, the connection suddenly has the wrong resistance (zero instead of what is expected) and the system can detect it as a tamper condition.
To make it work, you usually have to enable the tamper flag/option on that zone. I’m talking generally here, not specific to any brand. I’m mostly familiar with Paradox systems, even though my most recent residential acquisition has an IDS.
Using the resistor also allows doubling-up on some alarm systems. You can put two sensors on a single input, by wiring a 1k resistor in series with one, and a 2.2k resistor in series with the other. When both are closed, the combined value is about 680Ω, but when the zones opens the resistance is either 1k, 2.2k, or infinite. Again, this is an option that has to be enabled for the zone.
Have you come across this playlist from Ecogicaltime? I found lots of good info on there.
You can program the panel with a laptop, the IDS swift software and a off-the-shelf FTDI. Don’t buy the R1k IDS cable. Just connect the FTDI following the serial connection detail in one of the manuals.
I have and am doing it one by one although I don’t think he has found a way to quick stay and go without having to go through mode select stay zone etc
I have not used it myself. I use 3 stay profiles while inside and the arming zone to away arm when I leave.
I assume the stay and go is to stay arm when the family stays inside and you leave?
when i leave and the exterior alarms are off but interior on so the dogs don’t set off the alarm.
