First question is the battery out of warranty?
Did you replace the battery cell? I think the battery warranty is void then. Could be why he does not answer you.
Sorry I’m no specialist in Pylontech batteries. I can’t help you in any way.
I use the Batt View software to look at cell conditions.
I did once a upgrade on a UP5000 battery and bricked it. I got it replaced with a US3000C BMS.
It works I needed to tinker with the Batt View software to force it to make it a UP5000 battery.
This was done under Jeff guidance.
hello.
Thanks a lot Howto for your answer.
Indeed there is no more guarantee because I had to open the battery but it is because one of the elements had started to swell until deforming the hood. So I replaced this item with one that I salvaged from another US2000B. This battery was only 2 years old but I couldn’t return it to the supplier because I live on an inaccessible island and the seller closed his shop.
Even if the warranty is void, Jeff can at least help me fix a battery with two!!! I’m not asking for replacement, just help getting it working again…
As far as I know, the only way to get the battery back into sync is to manually balance the cells. There is a video somewhere on Youtube of someone doing that. And I think it was discussed here before.
Hello.
Thank you for your reply.
I did not find the video on youtube but I have a small idea of the method to use to rebalance manually. I think by putting the 3 cells in parallel and charging them together they should balance each other out. I had thought about it but given the sofistication of the battery I hoped that PYLONTECH had provided a command to do so from the software.
I don’t think there is anything in the Pylontech battery that can do a balance on request. It has only a very basic passive balancer that can bypass around 50mA past a high cell. This is perfectly sufficient, because once the cells are balanced (and they are mostly balanced in the factory), you don’t need much to keep them there. In other words, there isn’t much “sophistication” there, neither is it really needed.
You have only two options. You can cycle the battery between 80% and 100% several times, taking care to keep your charge voltage just high enough that you don’t push any individual cell over 3.55V, and wait for the balancer in the battery to do its job. This will take 2 weeks or more if you cycle it daily.
Or… you can open the case and manually balance it. The best method would be to take each cell to 3.5V individually, possibly with a bench supply, and then put it back together again. I believe you can do this without removing the cells from the case, you simply need access to the terminals on the balancer board.
Thank you very much for your help and research.
That’s really nice of you.
I have work to do now. I will keep you informed of my experience.
I have already spotted the battery which has a higher voltage than the other 2 and these 5 cells actually have the same voltage. I will therefore on the contrary lower the voltage of the cells to the same level as those of the other two batteries and then I will recharge the whole.
Automatic balancing is not possible here because the battery does not exceed 68%.
Thanks again.
Oh it will balance… eventually. But it will take an inordinate amount of time!
Discharging the high cell sounds like a plan. You may have to do it more than once. Because of the flat voltage curve of LiFePO4 cells, I don’t think you’ll be able to accurately hit the same level of charge as the other cells based on voltage alone.
Nevertheless, in the old days with lead acids we would sometimes connect a 12V lamp across the high battery (ask @TheTerribleTriplet !) while it was charging. It would pull the lower battery up, while letting some current bypass the other one.
Drain the bank to like 20%. Then recharge at low amps.
Using 1 (±50w) or 2 (±100w) (or 4) 12v car headlamp bulbs connected in parallel, both the filaments must glow IF you can still see each cell’s volts and IF you can connect the 12v bulb/s to the cell/cells, put “The Bulb” on the cell/s that still charge faster.
“The Bulb” is one big balancer see.
Cautionary notes:
Careful for the heat if you put them over 2/3/4 cells, they get smoking hot!
And do not get distracted when you have connected the bulb/bulbs, focus! It takes but a few minutes.
Can do 1-4 cells max, Over 4 and the bulbs may blow.
You can get a bank back in balance quite quickly this way.
Hope this helps.
EDIT: Why 20% SOC?
The balancers may start at 3.2v … the lower you start the more time you have, per charge, to help the balancing.
Hello everyone.
Thanks for your advices.
I was finally able to rebalance my US2000B battery.
I fully recharged each of the 3 elements with a 10A charger set at 17.6 Volts (voltage of a 5-cell battery). When I put them back in the battery it still showed the same percentage, 68%, normal, because of its memory. So I discharged it down to 10%, then recharged it with a 48V multiplus II. It worked. She took it back 100%.
Hello.
I have another problem with another US2000B.
The discharge works fine but impossible to recharge it.
It is connected to a MULTIPLUS II 48V VICTRON. In inverter mode it supplies appliances and the battery discharges normally. The SOC LEDs show the level well.
When I put the MULTIPLUS in charger mode (BULK), the battery SOC lights go out and it refuses to charge.
The MULTIPLUS switches to Absorption then to Float but does not charge. As soon as I switch back to inverter mode to power my devices, the battery lights come back on and it works in discharge again. Do you have an idea ?
Hello there, i have the same problem. I was able to comunicate with Batteryview but for some reason that message appears now and i didnt change the date format. It could be related to other problem?
Go to system setting, then region settings, change the country or regions to south africa and then the regional formart to english (uk). That solved the problem of timeout communication for me. Thank you all for the info.
@JacoDeJongh@JaeDi
A US5000 got bricked today using 3.0.28 stuck at 83%. 3.0.24 is also not finding it.
Which BV versions can I use? Or does one of you have the BMS force tool for me?
Jeff hasn’t answered yet, but I need it urgently to restore a friends battery.Thanks!
Hello everyone. Just bricked US3000C 5 days ago. But I have done it with Batteryview 3.0.24. Now it isn’t answering on console port. I have received from pylontech support (not Jeff) Batteryview 3.0.29 and the original bin files for my battery, but I can’t connect to it, even with old 3.0.3 batteryview. Cable and USB to RS232 are OK, PC is sending, but not receiving any data from US3000C (used port sniffer to check). Also checked all speeds available on the comm port, with all 3 Batteryview versions I got. When starting battery no external LED is lit, I see only inside on the communication boards some LEDs are lit. Please advise.
Fine support from @Pylontech-Jeff and Chris also from Pylontech, battery is alive.
