I’ve just ordered some new components. I’ll keep you up to date regarding this issue. Many thanks again.
Jean
No problem at all. Just to be sure though, since I am not sure of your level of proficiency in electronic work (mine is hobbyist at best!), you probably need the right equipment for this as well, like a hot air rework station (as seen in the video). Also note that those fuses melt if you get them too hot, and the spec sheet tells you what temperature to stick to, and how much time you have. You may want to check if the solder you have will work well with that.
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@plonkster you do yourself a disservice!
I’m sure you have enough equipment and skill to make a go of soldering whatever.
It always amazes me when a pic of blown components is posted and repair advice is requested. This PCB looks well made and the components distributed evenly so it is has a good chance of being repaired.
When some guy’s inverter blows up I simply ask if he has insurance!
Haha. Well thanks, but the majority of my technical prowess on this thread has way more to do with experience with online search tools (eg, I found that first video by chucking the image of the board into google image search!) than actual electronic skills. I don’t even own a hot air rework station (but I will buy one in a heartbeat if I ever need it). I do own a decent temperature controlled soldering station though.
My biggest issue at the moment, is that I can no longer see as finely as I could even ten years ago. I could read the small print on tiny chips, I could see the tiniest contact and solder it. It’s over. Also, soldering a micro-USB connector… really REALLY hard!
For this job, the issue is that you need to preheat the board before soldering. Trying to heat the pad and the component to a sufficient heat for a good solder joint, using only a soldering iron, is going to be hard. You could probably try heating the board (carefully!) with a heat gun and then soldering with a good temperature controlled iron, but when I see people work with hot air stations… it is a bit like when I see someone make a good weld with a tig welder… I almost want to go out and buy one!
Welcome to the older age group, the group that has thought of everything.
https://www.takealot.com/helping-hands-magnification-clamping-tool/PLID73159517
or
You’re welcome …
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I have a “helping hands” tool, but I find that my reading glasses do a better job than the magnifying glass that came with that thing, and that both of those are still not good enough for soldering really tiny things like the pins on USB connectors. Also, I don’t think it’s only age. The simple truth is that when I started playing with electronics in high school, the chips were a lot larger, and surface mount PCBs were just starting. It is not just the eyesight that has changed, the text, chips and pins actually did get smaller as well. The solder itself also changed, lowering the lead content. I still have solder I bought in 1996… love that stuff, easy to work with. The modern stuff needs a clean surface to work with or it makes dry joints.
Hello,
Thank to the video, I could see that a hot air solder need to be used so yesterday I ordered one device from AliExpress (60€). I’m not a professional too but a good and curious DIY man. Thank you so much for your advice regarding this and also to not exceed the temperature when soldering.
Cheers
Jean
Hi everyone,
I received my hot air device from AliExpress (Bakon 858 at 50€). I easily could unsolder the 8 fuses without take care of the heat (I set it up to 300°c) because the components were already burnt. Prior that, I received the components (ref ITV5432L5030WR) from Mouser, it was shipped from Texas-usa to France by FedEx, it took only 36 hours for the delivery, unbelievable ! I’ve paid 50€ excluding tax for 16 units including the shipment.
The nightmare has started at the time to solder the new components on the board. I did try to use the hot air device like in the video. I’ve set up 180°c (below the max temperature given in the components specification (max 200°c). At this point, I couldn’t manage to solder it, not enough heat. I decided to increase the temperature to 200°, it didn’t work too. I’ve tried 220 then 250 then 280° and I’ve burnt the component. I realized that the hot air solder is requiring a lot of experience by probably heating the surface and quickly lay down the component but I didn’t have this dexterity.
So I decided to solder the new components by using the traditional method (soldering iron). This hasn’t been the solution too because the fuses (ITV5432) are soldered on a quite large surface which make it very difficult to heat, so I’ve had to push my soldering iron to 280°c (otherwise the welding doesn’t melt). By doing that, I’ve damaged the case of each components (doesn’t look nice) but each component seams to work fine after having test using a microcontroller (like in the video).
I mounted the board back in the battery and it seems to work fine now. Of course, I need to test it for a longer period of time.
In conclusion: the explanation that was given in video is definitely the solution, thank you a lot for that. But the fixing required knowledge about how to solder this kind of component and the fact that it is mounted on a large surface that is difficult to heat. I’m not happy at all with my ugly solderings and i won’t be surprise if it break down again soon.
I’ll keep you posted with any future event. Thank again for your help.
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I reckon you should only use the hot air station to remove the components.
Then when they are out of the way clean the track with solder wick and a soldering iron.
And then use the soldering iron to solder the components onto the PCB.
You might find a bigger tip for your soldering will help trying to heat the leads/tracks up enough to have a nice solder joint. You must add solder (with flux) when soldering…
Hello,
I’ve got additional information from the video author (JFaria). As a beginner, my mistake was to not pre-heat the PCB board. If you look carefully the video again, you will see that the PCB board is laying on a heater plate ! This heater plate was set to 200°c (value given by JFaria). So the pre-heating is a crutial part of the process, it allows to heat the large surface then it is possible to solder the component by just adding additional heat using the hot air gun. I’m happy to have learnt this, next time I won’t make the same mistake.
Cheers, Jean
That’s precisely what I wanted to say. If you heat the board, to the point where solder already melts, then place the components with a pair of tweezers, into the solder and just finish up with a dab of solder.
Even in the video you can see the board is a little discoloured and dirty from the flux afterwards. Still beats replacing the entire board. If you are OCD you can toss the board into a diswasher and rinse off with alcohol afterwards, then dry it well for a few days. Or just clean the area with some alcohol and a soft brush. But why bother it if works and nobody sees it 
Glad to hear you had success with the repair.
With military radio manufacturing back in the 70’s we used acetone to clean PCBs.
Us teccies weren’t allowed to solder the components. We identified the dud components with a sticker and there were soldering manne whose job it was only to solder!
Hello Plonkster,
As I’m a beginner I didn’t understand what “preheat” really means, it is the reason why I did enough pay attention to the deepness of your message. I’ve read your message again and now it became clear, you are 100% right 
. It is my way to learn …making mistakes. Thanks again for your answers and advices
Regards
Jean