It might work but I was told that a off grid move out and a normal move out are different. Accounts lady said that usually they will only proceed with the move out when there is another account with a move in reference. For off grid “move out” there is no “move in” to follow so they have to capture it as a off grid move out, if that makes sense.
Also the transformer feeds a couple of houses around me, it just has cables going to numbered kiosks with the meters inside. They want to remove kiosk and cable to it, guess they don’t want any illegal connections afterwards.
Well, that would place the leaving tenant in a pickle.
As the landlord, I know there has been redecorating and readvertising time in between tenants.
I am pretty sure I would have heard something if I had been tying up the previous tenant’s R20K+ deposit.
It is the departing tenant’s own electricity account and his deposit.
That’s why I am saying he has no say whether I as landlord relet the place and when.
My agreement with the previous tenant doesn’t include a commitment to relet my property.
ESKOM won’t get it from me as I have no agreement with ESKOM.
So I don’t see how ESKOM can withhold the previous tenant’s deposit.
(And I don’t think that they do, otherwise, I think I would’ve heard about it, in 20 years of letting the property).
They probably just used last reading for the move out tenant and started with same reading for move in and nobody really noticed if there were a few units different on the move in account.
All I know is they kept asking me who was moving in so they can open account.
I was also told that in a move out they supposed to do an inspection and reading and switch off power, if they do this at your place then it makes sense. As it would have to be switched back on for move in.
anyway dont shoot the messenger I’m just posting my experience.
I am very glad you posted your experience because I don’t intend to get caught for 2.7K the same way.
As to actually removing the cable, I witnessed the upgrade of a 50kVA to a 100kVA supply.
That needed about 60m of heavier cabling. I don’t know what the upgrade cost, but it no doubt wasn’t cheap.
The old cable was not recovered by ESKOM, but after a few months, it was dug up and repurposed by the customer. That was over 10 years ago, no one from ESKOM ever enquired after it.
So since the 15 Dec I am officially off eskoms grid. Got a call from eskom tech while away on holiday that they need to be let in to remove their meter and cable no warning or making prior arrangements. Told them on phone where to go and asked if they could leave kiosk with my cable inside, nope they said they will remove everything so now I have a rock marking the spot where they buried the end of my cable. Might stick my own pole with box in so it doesn’t get lost and forgotten one day. So the rock on the right is where my kiosk box with the meter used to be, they also removed the cable to the DBC 2-1 box.
So I also took some pics of the setup with the plugs for the generator. First plug on left goes to the change over switch above it so that i can run whole house from gen and bypass inverter supply. Second plug on the right which is shown plugged in goes to the inverters so that I can run loads and charge batteries when needed.
Put in a small breaker for the WiFi switch and then added a mechanical timer between the sonof switch and the contactor coil so that the geyser definitely won’t come on after hours.
Also added another set of lights on one of the sonof outputs (not in pic)
Also tightened all the terminals with insulated screw driver, it’s a definite must do after a new install as the copper slowly moves and the connections become a little loose. Wish I had a clamp meter to check if my multis are sharing load equally as I think I picked up a cable that was pinching the insulation a bit in the terminal so wasn’t making good contact, all fixed now.
Thank you
Was seeing lots and lots of pages and options on acdc but this makes perfect sense and its not too expensive.
I’ll grab these as a genset top-up connection when needed…much safer then my current “solution”.
I use these 32A connectors as well. My entire install is in a 48U network rack, and attaches to the house using these sockets, and some MC4 connectors on the PV side. In theory it is easily removable. In practice, you’d likely have to remove at least the batteries to get the weight down. This sucker is heavy.
just saw something which I need to check @plonkster you know the ins and outs of the mppts. I just saw something while I was staring at my VRM page (yes I have a problem, I cant stop checking my solar production)
The point shown in this pic shows a pv current of 24,6A but the actual short circuit rating of the panels are 11.35A and there are only two strings currently (excuse the pun). So is this the MPPT doing its thing and adjusting the current or is it from my panels? As I shouldn’t be getting more than 22,7A now. I have 3 more strings to add so should still be within the 250/100mppt with its 70A max input but a extra string would push it over the edge if this is the reading from the panels.
24.6A is only about 10% over your calculated short circuit current from the PV modules. This value is measured at STC (standard test conditions), so just like all other values, it can exceed the rated Isc at higher levels of insolation.
Edit: 5 Strings (the two you have “currently” and 3 more) of 11.35A each, even at 20% over… still puts you under 70A. You should be fine.
Ok so if its from the panels it actually shows that when planning our strings of panels we should leave a bit of fat so we not to close to the max volts and amps. I’m quite surprised that it is that much over.
It is important to leave fat on the voltage side. A little over on the current side is less bad, there are some margins in the hardware and it doesn’t run at these high current levels permanently anyway.
Yeah that leaves you with only 2%-3% margin. But with 6 strings you are over the battery-side limit of the MPPT anyway. Not sure what size panels those are. With an operating voltage around 140V I have to assume it’s 3xseries 72-cell modules, at 11A must be around a 400W module, right? 6 x 3 x 400 is 7200W, which is about 40% oversized for that controller. So I’d say 5 is the limit anyway.
no warning or making prior arrangements. Told them on phone where to go and asked if they could leave kiosk with my cable inside, nope they said they will remove everything so now I have a rock marking the spot where they buried the end of my cable. Might stick my own pole with box in so it doesn’t get lost and forgotten one day. So the rock on the right is where my kiosk box with the meter used to be, they also removed the cable to the DBC 2-1 box.
