Looking for clever affordable ideas.
Need to measure 3 x DB’s consiting o of Critical and Non-Critical loads.
Need the data stored/kept that I can collect to work out who used what.
… that does not cost my last kidney and left pinky.
Any suggestions?
Note: PAYG meters, that will mean 2 per DB = 6 in total, nope.
Depending on what current is being drawn by each circuit , you can look at these:
Smart WiFi Geyser timer-with energy metering -Smart Life/Tuya app | Shop Today. Get it Tomorrow! | takealot.com
and then for logging
node-red-contrib-tuya-smart-device (node) - Node-RED (nodered.org)
Personally I would check if you cant flash the Tuya with Tasmota but that becomes a bit Involved.
Here is a local doing his thing 
CBI Astute Power Monitor / Switch – Tasmotized! | MyBroadband Forum
Interesting. If I have no choice, then that is definitely a route to consider.
IoTaWatt, EXACTLY what I need!!! KIS - plug and play.
… but dammit, this building exercise (and I’m damn good at paying good prices) is still making me a poor mouse.
Pricewise, these off-the-shelve PAYG meters are by far the most accurate and cheapest.
But having two per DB, that gets really tacky and gets “complicated” for some too.
If I want to be TTT safe, I THINK, as this is measuring DB’s, not a device/circuit, one needs to contemplate the max breaker size on the property being 63a @ 242v.
Which leads me to think that a CT is the way to go. But what do I know, this is “higher grade physics” that I need to get a grasp of.
If you intend using the data for billing, then legally you probably need a meter at least certified for that. I don’t know how much an arm or a leg goes for these days, but an ABB C11 meter (IEC and MID approved) is under 2k. They also fit in a single DIN slot.
It is more as a guidance for me to find the “culprits”.
If this was official, or becomes official, yes, then there will have to be multiple proper PAYG meters.
So far it seems that 6 x CT’s (2 per DB) connected to a hub with local data access, like that IoTaWatt, the most sensible/clean way.
But dang man, money is a factor for intended use.
Surely the main culprits are the big loads so just those circuits should be measured (or do you suspect extension cords are bypassing the non-critical circuits?)
I would start with a simple single clamp on one “flat” (for a period of a few days) then rotate to find the culprit and then just focus on this one area.
Nope, that is handled. Use a induction plate, convection counter oven, MW and kettle.
The new area, not installing a electric geyser. Gas geyser yes. I KNOW gas showers are way cheaper than AC geyser. On demand and all that. Shave your legs all you want … no cold water for the next person.
To refill those big bottles? Not any of my concern.
And if that works well, when the other area’s geyser pops, would consider same there.
Here is what I’m after: Deviation from trends not having to ask 9 people who has what on.
For example, caught it on the Venus Critical loads … why is the draw above 1kw all the time? Let me take a looksee.
And found the “pirate load”.
Heating panel connected to a critical loads plug and left on for days. She “forgot”. Made a very compelling case to add some units to the PAYG meter. It was subsequently done FWIW.
So far:
CT clamp reader is the answer. Data locally stored for viewing to identify abnormal trends which will translate to a increasing “rent”, call it a “Empathy Tax” if you want, in the form of units added to the PAYG meter if the “issue” is ignored.
It is only slightly cheaper, and only if you don’t use lots of water. Per liter of water heated it works out more expensive. But because a geyser consumes 2kWh per day just to replace standing losses, you get somewhere between R7 and R9 for “free” every day, so most people should end up saving a little bit of money.
I don’t like my gas geysers at all. I have two of them for backup. One of them have broken twice, despite only being used when guests are around. The other one frequently turns off in the middle of the shower, and to restart it you need to close the water, count to ten, open it again, wait for all the cold water to pass (Again!) and hope it works this time. I hate them… I will never advise anyone to move from electric to gas, unless you invest in something high end.
Jip, I’m very aware of that. Have had that experiences.
Hence I got an experienced old toppie, referred, to come and look at it, advise/quote to supply and install the unit inside, with a temp adjustment on the unit.
It is extremely cost effective, and cheap(!), for me.
We have a 150l (main house - 4 x >65yo - cheap as chips can be and has a bath), 100l (wife and I, same, cheap as chips and unit has a bath) and then a 50l (one shower and kitchen - I don’t care about this one) on the property.
However, each time a geyser fails, R1500 excess.
To keep the 150l and 100l “charged up” can become a juggle most of the months.
And if I add another geyser, I have to get more panels/bigger inverter AND more units in winter …
Man, @Gman just has the touch!!! 
I believe a gas geyser can be very cost effective for a person living alone or a couple who is already a bit energy wise.
There should also be no domestic worker to abuse the hot water and preferably not a bath in the house.
With 2x, even 4x 5 to 10 minute showers per day, 2x zinks of hot water per day to do the dishes, plus odds and ends, 9 kg of gas gets you very very far.
Reminds me of a family member of mine who lived in a very upmarket estate in Pretoria a couple of years ago. They had gas piped to the property and per month billing.
During summer with only the gas hob and oven basically, all were fine, but then the first winter hit. Under floor heating, swimming pool heating for the kids, big heaters in almost every room of the open plan house, all on gas with a wife and kids who has no idea where money comes from.
The first month he recieved a R11k bill but didn’t think too much of it, probably a estimation or mistake, just pay. However after getting R20k bills for each of the next 2 months, he pulled the plug, no more swimming pool heating 24/7, no more under floor heating 24/7 and the gas fire place only in the evenings while actually using the room.
More than you are looking for but thought I would post it in any case.
There are 16 & 30CT clamp versions
Has it’s own local memory for data storage, fits on a din rail and totally open source.