My first reaction, having measured that already, one of the 2 cars has to park outside.
Then I recalled, we are talking of moving the workbench, that can work in front of the 3rd car, there is space, too little for a 4th car, enough got a “off-grid-garage”.
And the fan has all the space it needs …
Cause I have to deal with ants, insects, dust and spiders, as the system is “outside”.
Thanks @mmaritz, let me also think some more on “off-grid-garage”, another good idea.
If you do decide to go the garage route. Do what I did provided you have wifi coverage in the garage.
Install one of those wifi modules on your gate with the appropriate app. Then program it to close after a certain delay after being opened. Or even fixed slots per day.
No more worries. The app also sends you a notification when the door is opened and you can close it with your phone.
I did this with both my gate and garage door. Made my life very much easier.
I’m so going to investigate this. Thank you.
Have a Wifi camera in the garage already, but it is not foolproof.
My challenge: How to do it KISS … the smoke thing.
This pops to mind:
Your solution lies in what they call condominium mode on Centurion gate/garage motors, plus infrared beams which stops it from closing on top of you.
In condominium mode the garage will always close after a set time, then the beam will stop it from closing if a car / person is still in the way.
Add a Centurion G-Ultra and it can send you notifications when the garage opens, closes or stands open.
The gate for multiple properties which I manage is set up in condominium mode with beams, it stays open for 20 seconds and then it closes. I have notifications set up on the G-Ultra to notify me when the gate is still open after 30 seconds, then chances are good there is a problem and I can investigate.
You can even set it up with the beams to immediately close behind a car, so then it doesn’t even wait for the 20 seconds, if a car goes through in 5 seconds it will immediately close behind it.
You can also setit up to only send you notifications in certain time windows, so for example if you know your garage door is not supposed to open between 23:00 and 5:00 in the morning, then you set it up to even send you open and close notifications for that time window.
Wow, that is really a option to ponder on.
Thank you.
On the new remote app you can set up only the buttons you want for different people.
I have it set up to only show the “open gate” button on some residents apps, on others it shows the padestrian open button as well. On my app and some other admin / CPF people’s apps there is a emergency keep open button as well, which overrides the conduminium mode and beams so the gate stays open in emergency situations, for example in case of a fire.
Whilst waiting for the sparkie to find the time to pull the 10mm2 Critical and Non-Critical cables outside coupled with all the ideas so far, I’ve got the time to check and recheck.
The key for me being me … I must have options. I like options.
Option 1: Install as per the pic:
Will be super comfortable for me. I like comfortable.
BUT the temp in summer.
If the temp becomes a challenge …
Option 2: Move it to the garage:
The concrete bottom of that enclosure is the garage roof. Right above the spot where the solar can go. Drill 2 x 10mm2 holes to get into the garage. Easy.
If installed in the garage, I ponder on:
Enclose the system wisely. Cannot be seen from the road.
And considering all options given so far for the garage door challenges.
Also pondering on putting a wireless alarm PIR inside that enclosure, dedicated siren to go off if that area is opened and PIR not deactivated. Wake the dead. That alarm goes off, camera’s triggered. Auto close the garage doors if they are open. 
Irritations in the garage:
More goggas. Doom fogger, or some such solution there …
More effort to check weekly/monthly.
Have to move two vehicles if I quickly want to check anything.
And Suzy’s bonnet will be underneath the system, so need a ladder to get up there.
Another Note to self:
Suzy’s can be parked for a week at times. Have a dedicated charger to make the battery last longer. High cranking batts are not cheap.
So then need to figure a safe and clever connection for the charger that does not need a open bonnet, as it is done today.
Frightfully easy.
All our cars are wired with a plug directly from the battery and protruding sightly through the grill. I have two chargers mounted against the wall. When required, the charging can be done without having to open the bonnet. Just connect and go.
On the Suuz (but only if you have an aftermarket bumper) you could consider mounting a large Brad Harrison plug on the bumper (think the largest amp rating you can find is 350
Mine doubles up as a jump start plug as well and I specifically made my set of jumpers to have a BH plug on the one side.
Bonus - nobody borrows your jumpers as it is useless to them.
Have thought of that. Have the connector actually.
What stopped me dead:
How do I ensure no water ever will be entering there?
I have grown a rather big aversion against any form of DC sparks lately.
EDIT:
I do have this somewhere on the property … or had:
You get dust / water covers for Anderson connectors, I have hard plastic ones, but a friend have rubber ones as well.
Only downside with Anderson is that it won’t pull out if you forget it and drive off, so dan gaan die huis saam ry.
For that reason I’d maybe go Hella because it will easily pull out.
Mmmm, been around family members who forgot/missed to completely disconnect a trailer/caravan and driving away.
The one time on a farm: Die baas hy ry, die huis hy bly. (from one of the farm workers.)
My Dad drove away, having just connected the electrics of the caravan to the car, got distracted, and left.
Hence me with the open bonnet … JY SAL NOU HIER FOKUS, OKAY!!!
I think I can wangle that little connector I may, or may not, have, by putting a wooden block or rubber under the bonnet, pull that connector out from inside, and connect it …
You really have to submerge the vehicle (or at least the connector) for sparks to become an issue and not even then will it be an issue. Too much water.
Think vehicle that falls of ships and then the battery keeps on working for a long time still before it will go flat.
You’ll be fine.
Some chargers even come with dust covers.
Hence my saying use the crocodile clamps. They just click off/out of the BH plug if you forget to take them out. Don’t ask me how I know…
I don’t like leaving the bonnet open. Alright, this will differ by brand. If you have gas struts holding both sides, fine, leave it open. But I tend to drive a lot of Japanese stuff with a hard steel stick on only the one side. And my mechanically compassionate brain – or that is what I tell myself – will not allow me to leave the bonnet hanging with its full weight with a support on only one side. I have convinced myself it will mess up my nice panel gaps over time.
So what I do instead, is I put the charger ON the bonnet. It has nice rubber feat, it won’t scratch. And you see it immediately on approaching the vehicle.
I think I have a new spot in the garage … need to move a lot of shiite first … still Option 2.
Cause in my deliberations, AC, no problem, it hit me:
Strike 1: 5 x 4mm strings from the roof to the Combiner box inside the garage … ok.
Naa, don’t be silly!!!
Keep the Combiner box outside where it is easy.
Then wham, Strike 2: … so you are going to take 4 x battery cables through the wall with the 2 x 10mm2 AC?
I know about core drilling … maar die gat raak al groter en groter.
… unless there is enough slack and I can take it around the garage.
Let me think some more on this.
Mine is on the windscreen … “in your face” I thought.
But now you have me wondering too, Suzy, that bonnet is damn heavy …
Though about it … easy one this:
Lift the bonnet, connect charger to that port.
Set it down softly.
Charger on a mat on the bonnet …
Thanks, that then solves that.
Now to find that connector anywhere in 2 houses … sigh.
Precisely what I do.
Of course this has not been a problem the last two weeks. The Diesel has moved every day due to school exams. But as soon as things settle back to normal, it will be sitting again 4 days a week.
I have to do this… 
Been running to 10% SOC, Smartshunt SOC that is. As per Will’s vid.
BMS says cells are at like ±3.2v, maybe 3.15v some cells.
Interesting to see the JBD balancer struggling, being 270mA balancer, to balance when 3.5-5kW is sent to the bank from solar.
Ordered this JK BMS, because of Andy liking it so much:
They also have the JK Inverter BMS, it interfaces with Victron. But is is max 16 cells.
I like 18 cells.
Until the bank becomes 16 cells, at which time I bet there will be even smarter BMS tech out, the 20S BMS will do the job, become a spare one day too, like the JBD BMS will now become a spare.
Cause I realized the cells may outlast the BMS’es.
So better TTT keeps spares with his profound luck with everything from vehicles to solar to plumbing dramas.
The new jacked plumbers thought I was joking when I said, on this property, where I am, you are going to see some really interesting new problems. Walk the walk with me and you will learn new problem solving skills, see shiite you never though possible.
They are earning their rates, actually dropped them, feeling sorry for me. 
JK BMS in hand, all cables crimped.
Just patiently waiting for the electrician to get back from Mpumalanga job.
I do not like the idea to loosen the nuts of the cells to swap BMS’es.
Copying Andy’s plan how to connect for the BMS wire loom.
As Andy, I like the lug close to the pos pole.
Also want to connect both BMS’s wire looms (JBD and JK) so that I can swap BMS’es instantly, read, “less risk for TTT to blow shiite up”.
So I took some spare busbars and had small holes drilled.
Had the nuts, bolts and washer in a cupboard from a previous idea.
Bolt screws in (I have blisters form doing it 20 x 3 times) so bolts won’t fall out if the nut is removed.
Washer to ensure any size BMS balancing wire lug fits snug.
Tested it on the spare 19th warranty cell.
