Does anyone know if/how I can attach a pdf document??
Iāve added pdf as an authorized attachment. You should be able to simply drag it onto the post, or use the upload icon in the editor.
Lead acid batteries: When I am needing clarity I like reading independent sources like this one:
BattCahargingByrnePaper.pdf (48.4 KB)
The simple answer:
- Charger must be able to be programmed to the exact voltages as dictated by the manufacturer of the battery.
- Next level, get a BMV to ensure one does not overuse the battery consistently, thereby shortening its life expectancy/cycles, AS is noted on the same document one gets the Bulk/Absorb/Float voltages from.
Then if you are super cool, get a charger that van do not only ALL lead-acid makes, but also Lithium ā¦
EDIT: O, last crucial point:
3) Stick to the manufacturers specifications ito temp, that the battery can last itās expected cycles, in not only the area where the battery is stored, but also using a good charger in that they have Temp Compensation algorithms, that one can also adjust, AS is noted on the same document one gets the Bulk/Absorb/Float voltages from.
I think that paper overstates its case. Itās not like you have to be within a hundred millivolt or lose a battery. It really isnāt that big a deal. You need to push the voltage high enough to cause the battery to absorb the energy. Anything between 13.8V and 14.5V will do that. The higher you go, the faster it absorbs. If you go too fast, you lose electrolyte or damage the battery.
It is perfectly possible to charge a 12V battery to 100% SOC at 13.8V. It just takes a really long time.
The voltage requirements is not all that āexactingā. As long as you are in the ballpark.
(It reminds me of what I read the other day about the difference between a stick welder and a Mig welder. With the stick welder, you just have to be in the ballpark with your current setting, and use more or less the right size of rod. With the Mig welder thereās gas flow rate, feed rate of the wire, current settingsā¦ this particular article basically said, unless you know what you are doing and really need the expensive Mig welderā¦ just get a stick welder).
I agree with following the manufacturerās settings.
However lead acid batteries can be quite robust. The wet cell battery is a battery that you can provide an āequalization chargeā This is when you hammer a battery with a massive overvoltage that causes the cells to gas and boil off electrolyte. But not to worry, you simply add distilled water and its all good again.
Those were the days!
O, reminds me of my old beloved Trojan T105REās ā¦ I liked them a lot and they gave me 5 years still giving near perfect results being load tested, having equalized them every few months.
Sold them for more than their lead price was per kg at the timeā¦ made a few rands back ā¦ ai, those where the days.
Watch, Lithiumās, there are a lot of metals in them ā¦ their recycling is going to happen one of these years. 
Iāve been working with CTEK and Victron and Victron is most definitely the superior product through reliability.
The CTEK chargers appear to run quite hot and then eventually stop working and often even though the charger lights up it wonāt detect the battery.
Each time Iāve experienced this Iāve tested the board and power comes into the board okay but thereās no power at the output end.
CTEK do however have good charging stages to ārecoverā a battery but good luck with this as usually when the battery is needing this itās better to replace it however itās worth a try to tie you over until you can buy the new one, so if you have one mount it where there is plenty of ventilation and away from the sun or engine room heat.
Victron is often used in Marine environments and Iāve actually never had one fail yet and therefore appear very reliable and also often cheaper than the ctek, plus they link in nicely with all the other Victron gear which is quite substantial stuff
1 Like
Allow me to punt Meanwell (again)ā¦
I have been using this 12V charger: https://www.mantech.co.za/Datasheets/Products/PB-300-MW.pdf
Just amazing to see how many amps these can deliver for the size of the unit. Thereās also an adjustment for output voltage
I have one of those Benton chargers that has a 12V Lithium battery mode (LiFePO4). It works 100% but, like the CTEK that you mention, the Benton gets uncomfortably hot and I need to make a mod to clamp it to a big heatsink with some heatsink compoundā¦
I made heat sync for a CTEK MXS 10 but it hasnāt been enough during the recent summer temps and the nearly brand new CTEK died and is about to be replaced with an old Victron 15 which has been plodding along for years now.
You need forced cooling when the amps get up there. I find that the fan starting up is a great diagnostic tool as well: The intelligent ones start as soon as it delivers over a certain current thresholdā¦
I have a Benton BX2 (I think), itās probably 10 years old already, itās a 7A smart charger, still going strong and itās in daily use for the last 3 or 4 years.