This part of the draft regs:
should really be implemented, even if it never became a legal requirement.
It is legally required just about everywhere in the world, and goes a long way to preventing this sort of issue.
I like bootlace lugs, I have a square crimper for larger wires and a hex crimper for thinner wires.
There is also something to the number of strands in the wire to get a decent bite.
(Try a few test crimps and decide).
Another tidbit is that MCBs take a special screwdriver. No, it isnât the standard star.
( Iâve forgotten what they are called, but I have them, Google it).
That little bit of extra torque after a standard star starts slipping.
A quick squizz round with a Flir equivalent camera can reveal much on heavily loaded cables.
Itâs probably worth the investment if you are getting sparkies in regular to do something similar.
I bootlace crimped all my wires for the installation, also where I replaced my DB, every stranded wire was crimped. Also periodically inspecting with the thermal cam. Good insurance.
Groetnis
These?
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You also get hex insert bits for that. RS Electronics is a source locallyâŚ
PlusMinusGroetnis
With GP wire I donât believe this is as necessary (well all the electricians in the country will vouch for this)
But yes, crimping is the way to go!
Iâm intrigued by @Phil.g00 comment on bootlace ferrules. These are for electronics and I thought he was a dik-draad ouk 
Bootlace is the wrong thing for these connections - the terminals are not designed for them, and they might actually decrease the contact area. Blade terminals are the correct ones. Victron also recommend not using any ferrules or crimps with their press-fit connectors for mains.
What I usually do, is take them down with a Phillips, and then I rip out the big flat to torque it the last bit. All the breakers Iâve dealt with this far has a flat stripe across the screw.
I can confirm, however, that the usual âstarâ is not enough.
Blade terminals are nice, hook blades are even better.
ESKOM standardised on hook blades for their control circuit spring-loaded terminals in panels.
Those Yellow, Blue and Red lugs, from 6mm down, are better than the bare ones and would use them for spring-loaded terminals.
They are good, but youâd be surprised how many unfamiliar people crimp with the wrong orientation. Then, they are worse than anything.
Ireland is the bootlace world (no spring-loaded terminals). I like them because they are also coloured and insulated and do not have a 6mm size limitation. They also have a long âcrush sleeveâ, (my word).
A 6mm wire is often ample for domestic AC DBs, but with solar, I tend to use heavier gauge wire on the DC MCBs ( and some AC MCBs) if I need to or can.
However, I am back to a hydraulic crimper with flared ring lugs on the bigger stuff around the batteries.
Bare strands work themselves loose in MCBs, in my opinion. Especially when the strands arenât aligned and flat and cross over one another.
(This happens after the grub screw of an MCB is first tightened. Take the wire out once, and thatâs what youâre dealing with on the second insertion).
Probably caused by repeated heating and cooling cycles.
Bootlace lugs prevent strand misalignment.
On the thicker wire, a square bootlace lug has all the contact area (width) of a blade lug but with a greater volume of clamped conductor.
I suppose it is a preference for what seems to work after many years. Blades arenât bad.
I give every connection I give it a hearty tug afterwards, completely out of habit/muscle memory, whatever I use.