I’m unsure if that is legal. There’s a second isolator next to the tank in the roof, so you probably won’t electrocute anyone. And I can guess that you had to do this due to the perpetual lack of space in distribution boards.
Another option: For a geyser a breaker in the live side is sufficient. So you can free up space in the board by replacing a double-space isolator with a breaker, but I’m unsure if that will make sufficient room. But something to consider.
Replacing the Isolator is legal, removing the double pole breaker in the Db replacing it with a CBI asuted is not.
I think @plonkster may have thought the poster had removed the Isolator/breaker from the DB.
[quote=“Ironman, post:22, topic:5130”
Dont worry, nothing wrong with that.
I did, indeed. I know people do that sometimes… naughty naughty 
I replaced the geyser breakers with two of the CBI astute breakers.
I can control remotely:
Monitor daily energy usage per geyser:
And I can set a complex timing schedule. This one is just simple for every day:
My one and only visit to Namibia was courtesy of the SADF (as it then was). We had two ways of getting hot water.
The water pipe (singular) feeding the base was long, straight, and disappeared over the horizon. If your duties allowed you could wait until about 1pm and there would be enough tolerably warm water in that pipe to have a halfway decent shower.
If you were lucky enough to be billeted in a bungalow (I was) then there would be a device built onto the side which was known as a donkey (“'n wonderlike ding”) that was basically a 44 gallon drum with a cold/warm winter inlet and a place underneath for a fire. This would give reasonably hot water as long as you could keep the fire burning. That problem was easily solved (and the rise in temperature speeded) by siphoning diesel from one of the many vehicles around the base. You would throw the following underneath the donkey and in this order
Get a decent water saving shower head. The good ones are very good. They have some way of reducing flow whilst emitting lots of high pressure fine jets that are really quite stimulating.
I have these and they do save and they are good quality and give a good, vigorous jet of water. The newer ones have an adjuster for min water and even more min water. They come with that little tool that you see because, I’m told, people used to pinch them from B&Bs.
My long haired one takes the 150 liter geyser from 65 to 22 degrees in one shower 
It has long seemed to me that if you need to use the cold tap, then the hot water is actually too hot and so you have wasted electricity by getting it to that temperature. Modern washing wachines are very good on cold cycles (also use surprisingly little water), and the dishy does it’s own heating, so we can’t blame the appliances.
So unless you are running an operating theatre on the QT, you don’t need that scalding hot water.
Depends on the users.
Gas geyser, that works perfectly, until the wife wants piping hot water. Another story.
Electric geyser, if done same way then only one shower, depending on highest temp reached.
More people to shower, higher geyser temp + have to use cold water.
EDIT: I tried the above.
2 people, 40deg geyser, no problem.
2 different users and I had earl full upon earful on the matter.
Yes, but because of legionnaires, also no. Technically you can get away with 45°C in the tank, no cold water needed, and with a gas geyser that is probably what you’d do, you won’t heat it too much. With an electric geyser, you need to go to 55°C at least every few days.
An interesting solution, might be a mixer/tempering valve at the tank, that mixes it down and lowers losses in “transmission”. This is typically already done with solar geysers, where a hot summer’s day can leave the water at boiling point.
Was waiting for this. 
Our resident Idiot here in our Village made a good case for why it is not that important.
The risk may be low, but it is multiplied out over time. You need to get that tank up to a higher temperature occasionally. It doesn’t have to be daily, but just permanently setting the thermostat to 45°C is going to be forgotten until Grandma visits in 3 years and falls ill. Just because I can get away with it, doesn’t mean I’m going to count on it
I am fully in support of automated solutions that handles this for you.
He made a good point on that too:
I think it also depends on how much Legionella we’re talking about. There probably isn’t all that much in a 15mm copper pipe, which is generally below 30°C even in a hot roof space and flushed fairly regularly with a good flow of water, compared to a 150 liter tank that’s kept at the optimum bacterial growth temperature all of the time, and with flow dynamics that doesn’t quite equate to a daily flush.
Since we’re talking about geyser timers here, we really don’t need to argue too much. We have the technology. We have the capability to occasionally heat the tank a bit more. That is what we shall do
It normally seems like that, but with the hot water been drawn from the top and the cold water entering at the bottom, any monitoring device will show the water temp at the bottom. You might be sitting with halve a geyser full of 40 = degree water and only 22 degree being reported.
Our heatpump is set to 57. It won’t go higher than 60. So we are safe from the gogos and I find that I don’t want anything really hotter.
Yes. In our previous house and about 14 years ago now we had a solar geyser, and it used to get really hot in the summer. I remember a neighbour asking me how it worked and I said to him that in the summer he should keep his toddlers away from the hot water taps.
On a couple of occasions it got so hot that the pressure inside the geyser got over some threshold that activated a pop-off valve and sent most of the contents of the geyser down the roof and into the gutters. Which did not impress me.
The first time it happened it startled me. Then I got worried that the thing had burst. Then I called the plumber and he said don’t worry, it’s supposed to do that.
Maybe the kit we get these days has a better way of dealing with that situation.
Interesting gogga discussion you guys are having.
I thought of the same gogga factor this morning, currently planning to install a gas geyser, but keep the old electric geyser in place as a backup, so the electric geyser will probably stand off for weeks or months at a time.
I would be pleased if this was the case. The only difference between then and now is that the geyser will be pressurised. This will raise the boiling point of the water in the geyser but I’m sure the manufacturer will void the warranty if the geyser boils.
I know that Geyserwise initially had an issue with overheating geysers with their PV solar water system. This prompted them to fit the PTC element and to disable the MPPT above 75°C
