BlueNova LiFePO4 drop-in replacements

TL;DR: after about 2 years at a float voltage of 13.54V a Bluenova 8Ah LiFePO4 battery appears to have a capacity of around 6.9Ah. My “testing” methodology leaves much to be desired though. (sample n=1)

Not meant to fuel any brand war:

Had bit of a look at a Bluenova 8Ah that has been doing service in my home alarm.

Caveats:

  1. check my forum nick
  2. while checking voltage across the balance leads I shorted two pairs of cells momentarily (short enough to not cause fireworks but long enough to start melting the insulation on the leads). Pro tip: Don’t do this…
  3. I did NOT do any form of capacity check when receiving the battery.
  4. check my forum nick

Battery received March 2020 at a voltage of 13.19V
Between March and August 2020 the battery was charged to 14.4V, discharged to an assumed half capacity, and again charged to 14.4V.
August 2020 it was connected to the alarm.

By my measurements the alarm charges to 13.54V (should be limited to about 700mA but I am not 100% sure).

Since August 2020 the battery has been connected in the alarm but overall did not see too much discharge activity (at times the alarm was connected to a separate AC power source during load shedding). The battery did get to see actual use during the most recent round of load shedding which meant at times 3 x 2hour sessions in any 24 hour period. (this would mostly have been a fairly light 300mA power draw though).

Past week hooked the battery up straight out of the alarm (i.e. charged to 13.54V) to a 20W DC LED lamp, a way too big shunt and discharged the battery. (keeping in mind that between removing from the alarm and connecting the load, there was the momentary oopsie).

Shunt measured a consistent ~1A (while clamp meter and math both indicate ~1.5A). Managed close to 4.5 hours discharge before the BMS cut-off the output. So, I get to about 6.9Ah capacity.

To check capacity while charging did not go fully as planned since the charger went into storage mode which messed with time calculations etc. (likely operator error - check my forum nick). But about 6.9Ah went into the battery when all was said and done.

Did a second discharge which basically replicated the first discharge to again get to ~6.9Ah.

Rather than a smart charger I connected a DC power supply set to 14.4V and current limited to 1.5A. Shunt measured 1.43A (clamp meter showed ~1.53A). After about 4.5h battery reached 14.4V by which time about 6.98Ah headed the direction of the battery.

So, assuming an initial capacity around 8Ah, and other than the potential effect the momentary cell short might have had, this battery seems to give an indication of what capacity loss can be expected from a battery like this after spending nearly 2 years at float voltage (with fairly limited discharge events). I suspect this is the kind of use these 7Ah form factor “drop-in-replacement” batteries are intended for.

Some general observations:
On low voltage BMS cut-off, the overall battery voltage was still above 11V but one cell dropped below 2.6V when the BMS intervened. I let the cells rest but the battery terminals were not reconnected, even when the one low cell recovered to over 2.8V - the battery had to be connected to a charge source before the terminals would measure anything over 2.4V.

It looks like the balancing circuit comes into play at cell voltages around 3.595V but only when the pack voltage is >14.39V.

Good morning, what was the ambient temperature the battery was kept at most of its lifespan?
That degradation in capacity cannot be from use(cycle file) as it sound like your battery have not done even 500 cycles (500 cycles for this battery is a lifetime total of 55.2Kw discharged)
and was charged and discharged at low C rates and kept at a lowish voltage most of its life.
from your general observations…it might be possible that that one cell that reached Low voltage disconnect first also races ahead when charging and hits High voltage disconnect first i.e the battery is unbalanced. Set your dc supply to 14.6V an leave it on for a day or two to give the internal balance time to equalize the voltages

Thank you, but I was not really trying to solve a problem - just adding some observations to the giant suppository of information we call the interweb :slightly_smiling_face: But as this particular pack reaches >3.45V per cell without limiting the current to around 200mA the high cell tends to run away - this is made worse with a higher voltage on the charge source. The very small gain in extra capacity on these small cells is also probably not worth the effort to get the cells almost perfectly balanced.

Battery was indoors in a cupboard that probably varies between extremes of 15-25℃ over the course of a year.

I am assuming there was capacity loss but I do not know from what starting point. The apparent capacity loss will, according to me be mostly from being kept at what is actually a fairly high voltage. 13.54V will be around 3.38V per cell. Lithium cells do not do that well when kept at a high SOC.

In this case, no. The low cell is last to reach a voltage of 3.6V when charging.

I finally did a teardown on the SecuriProd battery with its claimed capacity of 7AH.

I managed to get the lid off without damaging the case. Cells are held in place with rubber, sponge and glue.

With a little effort I got the cells and BMS out of the case - they were held together nicely by the heatshrink. .

and then carefully removed the blue heatshrink.

Peeling the bottom layer of very sticky green cardboard reveals a 4S2P cell configuration.

More peeling off of cardboard and the BMS was free. It looks nice and beefy and it has balance resistors which is good. The FETs are D3080s and a quick look at the datasheet says they are rated at 80A max. So 3x would be to control charge and 3x to control discharge. I forgot to get the BMS IC part number before closing the battery up :unamused:

And I finally peeled off enough layers to get to the cells ! As can be seen in the pic they are 26650 cells and the rating printed on them is 10.6Wh @ 3.2V. So… the cells are rated at 3.3 AH and because there are in a 2P configuration the capacity is 6.6 AH. Sadly, this is less than the 7AH as printed on the battery.

Now contemplating a teardown of the Blue Nova 8AH :grin:

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I have some pics I will post later of an 8Ah Bluenova. BMS is identical to the 11Ah one I posted few posts up.

Considering possible effects of component availability past 2 years and/or competition enforcing a need to reduce build price it might be interesting to see how a 2+ year old bluenova compares to a newer one…

If you do a teardown and the build is same as mine, you are unlikely to remove the cells without complete destruction of the case. The cells are held in with what was a liquid when originally built, which then dried to a rubber-like compound - this stuff is not coming out by just prying it away from the case sides and wedging up.

Marketing. Very common to “round up”.

I know very few 1600cc engines that are actually 1600cc instead of being 1590 plus change…

:slight_smile:

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Looks like the Securi-Prod at least has the balancing circuitry populated.

thank you Greenman for sharing.
how did you get the top off without damage?

The top is glued on with that white silicone type stuff which makes it easier to get the lid off than if it was glued with something stronger. I used a small flat screwdriver to lift the black edge of the lid off the green box part and moved the screwdriver around prising the lid off till it came off the box !

Thanks for this in depth review!
The product looks as good as the rest but I still have the question of who Securi-Prod are… :thinking:
Clearly these products are all made in China with the label of your choice printed on them if you buy the necessary quantity.

Erm, @Richard_Mackay… That’s how everything works…

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Other than the slight marketing rounding up, the Securi-prod above actually looks like value for the little money you pay for it, given that they bothered to populate the balancer (or, probably closer to the mark, bought a balancer board from a supplier that populates it).

Also, one has to remember that “7Ah battery” has become a type specifier for use case and dimensions as opposed to an actual rating statement. It is almost a synonym for “Alarm battery” at this point.

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Want to ask before I blow stuff p again, would it be an idea to replace the 4 x 12v 7ah batteries in a APC Online Double Conversion UPS with 4 of these BlueNova dropins?

Or is it not that level “drop-in”?

The issue is that you won’t get cross-battery balancing, so you’ll probably have an issue rather soon. Internally the batteries should be fine, but expect a high-voltage disconnect to trigger on one before the others are full in a month or two.

Edit: And see post #2: current! – this thread has been so long, it’s looped :slight_smile:

A UPS that takes 2 should be okayish, I’m using my 2x Securiprods like that for the garage door. But I kept them paralleled and on float for about a week before connecting them in series for the door.

I would personally love to replace the LAs in a 2kw 96v UPS, but that’s a good way to blow R8k, if nothing else.

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Thanks @mariusm

Think I will settle for lead acid then cause I want to re-introduce this UPS before LS starts again as I can hear the fridge/freezer motor rattle something awful at times when LS happens.

The “death rattle” coincides with the lights flickering more pronounced.

Just check that the lead acid batteries does not cost more than a new fridge. Sometimes it is cheaper to replace the old appliance which might have high power consumption as well.

The fridge/freezer is newish, did that replacement first.

Naaa, like R300 bucks each, need 4. It is more for “protecting myself against myself”.

The alternative is to use the main battery, leaving the AC_In on the APC disconnected.

The garage motor batteries, bugger me … I forgot to have that circuit moved over to Critical Loads, so once that is done, the garage motor batteries (2 x 24v lead acid) can maybe go to the 48v APC … mmm.

Anycase, thanks for the heads-up that the “drop-in” has T&C’s.

Read the first 2 posts on this thread :wink:

My APC 700va UPS battery bank … Stupid me, got a 24v BMS with 8 cells, only for it to not work so well as the cells can handle it, not the BMS ito the amps.

So I promptly got the 2nd set in parallel … and it works for more than a year now.